The Historical Origins of Soju
The history of Korean soju dates back to the 13th century, during the Mongol invasions.
When Mongol forces stationed in Goryeo to prepare for the invasion of Japan, they brought with them distillation techniques that were passed down to the Korean Peninsula. At the time, the people of Goryeo primarily enjoyed fermented beverages like makgeolli, but over approximately 80 years of Mongol influence, a distillation culture naturally took root.
The Mongol invasion of Japan ultimately failed due to the kamikaze typhoons, but the distillation techniques they left behind became a pivotal turning point in Korean drinking culture.
From then on, each region of Korea developed its own unique distilled spirit culture, drawing upon local crops, climate, water, and soil. Distilled soju made from rice, barley, sweet potato, and various fruits emerged across the country, establishing itself as a cultural heritage that captured the distinctive flavors of each region.
1965
During a period of poor rice harvests, the government enacted the Grain Management Act, restricting the use of rice in liquor production.
In response, Jinro adopted industrial ethanol—mixing it with water and synthetic additives—to mass-produce diluted soju, which it brought to market, effectively monopolizing the liquor industry.
1991
The 1991 amendment to the Grain Management Act once again permitted the use of rice in alcohol production.
However, high-proof Andong soju made with rice was only produced in small traditional breweries, and its recognition and consumption remained largely regional.
Traditional distilled spirits failed to gain widespread popularity, while inexpensive, low-proof diluted soju established itself as the drink that represents Korea.
What Is Ethanol?
Ethanol (酒精) refers to the high-concentration alcohol that serves as the base for making liquor.
It is typically produced by fermenting and distilling starch- or sugar-rich raw materials such as tapioca, potato, sweet potato, and sugarcane, generally reaching an alcohol concentration of 95%.
To maximize profits, ethanol companies source their ethanol at the lowest possible cost regardless of the raw material. As a result, ethanol may be produced domestically or imported from overseas.
The Lost Aroma of Nuruk in the Age of Mass Production
The emergence of mass-produced rice-based distilled spirits is a relatively recent development. Notable examples include a product launched by Jinro in 1998 and Hwayo, which appeared in 2005. Despite their premium pricing, neither product used nuruk—the traditional Korean fermentation starter—relying instead solely on ipguk, a cultured grain-based koji. This has drawn criticism for losing the authenticity of traditional Korean distilled spirits, along with the regret that the deep flavor and delicate floral notes imparted by nuruk have been lost.
Furthermore, both products lacked a drinking culture that presented food pairings to help consumers enjoy rice distilled spirits in a more contemporary way, and quality improvements addressing the overall consumer experience—such as hangovers, harsh taste, and off-flavors—were never properly realized.
Andong Soju: Deep Roots That Preserved Tradition
Traditional distilled spirits—particularly Andong soju made with rice—quietly held their ground even during the era when diluted soju dominated Korea’s liquor market. Though not widely popular, Andong soju stood as one of Korea’s few remaining traditional spirits, carrying forward its deep roots and unique heritage.
What Has Been Holding Andong Soju Back from the Mainstream?
Most people perceive Andong soju as an expensive, strong-tasting spirit.
Nuruk, the traditional raw material, is an extremely sensitive ingredient, and the lack of technology to precisely manage it meant that liquor quality was never properly standardized.
The absence of a drinking culture has also been a major factor holding back the popularization of Andong soju.
This is exactly why many people think, “Andong soju? When would you even drink that?”
The lack of a clear story about which foods and occasions pair well with a particular spirit is a significant shortcoming.
Dining consumers don’t simply want individual menu items—they seek a well-composed combination.
For example, the harmony between main and side dishes, and between food and ambiance, all play important roles.
Alcohol, too, is a drink chosen according to personal taste, and its harmony with food is essential.
Presenting consumers with thoughtful pairings—whether between dishes or between food and atmosphere—represents a true evolution in dining culture.
Through this, diners can experience meals that are more atmospheric and refined.
Without such harmony and pairing, consumers cannot fully enjoy the complete experience that a restaurant should provide.
The True Revival of Andong Soju
Therefore, the meaning of ‘Damso’ lies in elevating product quality through advanced ingredients and the use of both nuruk cultivation and ipguk technology,
while providing the drinking culture that has long been absent—transforming incomplete service into a complete dining experience.
This is an endeavor that gives true identity to traditional rice distilled spirits with 800 years of heritage, and an effort to elevate the sophistication of dining culture.
